1890s Walking Suit - Design & Inspiration
After some very early historical costuming projects, I wanted to give myself a more complex project. I knew I wanted a multi-layer project and something that was outside of a time period I had previously attempted. After some random sketching, I came to this idea for an 1890s ensemble.
The first sketch for this project was the walking suit by itself. The idea of the evening ensemble came a little bit later. The design was based on an extant example from 1892-94 that’s kept in the collection at the Pitti Palace Museum of Costume and Fashion. After further research, I found an additional example in the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s gallery. This example, from 1889 by the House of Worth, also informed my design. I knew that I wanted to do something in this warm neutral tone with some lace and trim work. I liked the open jacket of the example from 1889, but preferred the shape of the 1892-94 sleeve and skirt. The first sketch had much more lace work on it. I limited that in the final design.
The evening gown was much more complicated. I knew I wanted to practice some drapery, and incorporate the same lace from the walking suit and add some beading. As for the rest of it? I couldn’t make up my mind - sleeves or no sleeves, front or back closing, complex beading or something simple? My research didn’t help either; I just kept getting more ideas. I finally decided on something middle of the road. The beading wasn’t too complicated, there were straps but no sleeves, and I’d incorporate some of the same flowers I’d use for the hat.
The concept of having a skirt with interchangeable bodices is one that’s found in history. One of my favorite Worth gowns - a red velvet masterpiece from 1893-1895 kept at the Metropolitan Museum - has a day bodice and an evening one. (I’ve linked it below for your viewing pleasure). Having separate bodices for the same skirt started in the 1860s and continued for several decades. When skirts took up so much yardage, it was incredibly practical to have one skirt with multiple functions. Think the original capsule wardrobe.
This design did change as I worked on it. The final changes to the design happed just moments before I finished the evening bodice, resulting in some rough sketchers and rougher mental math. After my research and design process, I hunted for materials. I wound up sourcing my materials from seven different retailers to find the fabrics, trims, and patterns I wanted. From design conception to finishing touches on the garments, I spent about a year and a half on this project. Check out the images of the finished project in my portfolio or check out the other blog post for more thoughts! The other blog post will be up a couple weeks after this one.